(Return to Lighthouses of Asia Index)
In the descriptions that follow, our knowledge of the early
lightstructures is due mostly to the contemporary lists of Findlay [1].
It is not surprising to find that the first lighthouse on
the west coast of India was built at the entrance to Bombay (now Mumbai), the
chief seaport of western India, and a great city with a sheltered harbour
covering 70 square miles. Originally owned by Portugal, Bombay passed into
British hands by the royal marriage of Charles II to Princess Catherine of
Braganza. This single event was to have very great consequences for the future
prosperity of Great Britain for, arguably, it gave Britain the most significant
toehold in what was to become the most precious jewel in the crown of the
British Empire. In 1668, Charles transferred ownership of Bombay to the East
India Company and under the leadership of Gerald Aungier, Bombay prospered
greatly. During the British wars with France in 1744-8 and 1756-63, Bombay was
developed as a naval base, but the greatest spur to its development occurred as
a result of the Chinese famine of 1770. More Chinese land was required for
growing rice, at the expense of cotton, so the Bombay cotton mills were rapidly
expanded to cope with the Chinese demands for cotton. The industry grew at a
tremendous pace.
The opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 also greatly
increased the volume of trade passing through Bombay.
The need for a navigation light for the port was first met
in 1842 by the mooring of a lightvessel off Colaba Point (18o50’N
72o47.5’E). Findlay describes it thus:
“In 7 fms. (12.8 m), 4½ miles (7.2 km) S.S.W. from
Colaba Point. A blue light every hour and false fire every ½ hour.”
The meaning of the phrase “false fire” is unclear. Five
years later, in 1847, a lighthouse was constructed on Colaba Point (18o53.7’N
72o47.7’E), this time with a light of a modern revolving design that gave a
bright flash every two minutes. The white tower was 89 feet (27 m) tall, and the
elevation of the light itself was a total of 132 feet (40 m), giving it a range
of 17 miles (27.3 km).
Four more years were to pass before lighthouse construction
began in the regions beyond Bombay at Karachi (Kurrachee) in 1851. Today, of
course, Karachi is a major seaport of Pakistan. At this time, the settlement was
part of British India, having been taken in 1847. Karachi was an important
strategic location on the northwestern side of the Indus Delta, one of the
world’s great navigable rivers that led not only to Hydrabad and the
surrounding hinterland, but offered rapid access deep into northwestern India.
The British constructed a lighthouse as part of their fortifications at Manora
Point (24o47.3N 66o58.3E), which marked the western side of the entrance to the
Bay leading to Karachi. The fixed light was visible for 16 miles (25.7 km) from
its height of 120 feet (36.4 m). In the same year, another lightstructure was
built on Piram Island (F0448) in the Cambay Gulf. Its fixed light was visible
for 12 miles (19.3 km) from an elevation of 66 feet (20 m). A year later another
light was shown for the first time from Taptee (today, known as Hazira
lighthouse on Suvali Point, F0476) on the north shore at the mouth of the river.
The light was visible for 10 miles (16 km) from a height of sixty feet (18.2 m).
In 1856 a spate of lighthouse building took place, with
structures being completed at Mandvi (F0357), a small light at Ghogha Bandar
(F0452), Koon Bunder (22o17’N 72o18.3’E), Devajagan (F0468, also called
Tankaria) and Bleagura Dandee (F0472). A fort had been constructed at Mandvi, in
the strategic entrance to the Gulf of Kachchh (Kutch) and the lighthouse
provided on the southwest bastion at a height of 80 feet (24 m). Koon Bunder was
located on the west bank of the Sabermutty River and the light was shown from
September 1 to June 15. Bleagura Dandee was a minor light, whilst Taptee light
was on the north shore of the river.
South of Bombay, the next important settlement was the
famous fortified enclave of Goa. Aguada Fort is still to be found on a hill
behind the town and it was here at the great height of 280 feet (85 m) that the
light shone from the lighthouse, which still exists (F0606). Findlay reported
that the flash interval was a long seven minutes, although he seemed unsure of
this fact.
The shores of southwest India are known as the Malabar
Coast. They had seen a lot of settlement over the centuries of exploration and
consequently a number of quite early lighthouses were constructed at Tellicherry
(1835 with a second light added in 1847), Cochin (F0698, 1839), Cannanore
(F0672, 1843), Calicut (F0686, 1847), Mangalore (F0668, 1851), Kumta (also
written Coumta, F0642, 1855) and Allepey (F0706, 1862). Seas around these shores
were susceptible to the southwest monsoon, during which time lights were not
shown. The lighthouse at Allepey was a substantial red brick tower, 85 feet
(25.8 m) in height that remains in use today. Calicut was one of the first
points of contact between Europe and India, for it was here that Vasco da Gama
called in 1498. The city was already a centre for the spice trade, as well as
textiles, tea and nuts, and had given its name to the type of cotton (calico)
that was traded here. The light at Calicut was exhibited from the greater height
of 105 feet (31.9 m), five feet (1.5 m) higher than from Allepey, but the latter
was a second order light visible to 15 miles (24.1 km) compared to only 12 miles
(19.3 km) from Calicut. In 1799, like the other trading centres of the Malibar
Coast, the British acquired Mangalore at the mouth of the Netraviti River. It
was important for most of the usual commodities, as well as coffee and timber,
but also as a centre for traditional shipbuilding for the Sultans of Mysore.
A few thousand years ago, the sea level was low enough for
Ceylon to be part of the Indian land mass. (It is worthy of note that earliest
Indian history tells of a great flood, in much the same way as is told in the
Bible [2]. We might
speculate that such an event at the earliest points in our human history may be
linked with the now proven rise in world sea levels.) Even today, the Gulf of
Mannar, which separates the two countries, has two narrow spits of land that
form a broken barrier across the Gulf. The island of Mannar in Ceylon is linked
to Pamban Island of India by Adam’s Bridge, a row of coral islands protected
on either side by reefs. The seas at this point were much used by ships passing
around the southern tip of India and heading for the northern shores of the Bay
of Bengal, and the land that stretched northwards from Mannar became known as
the Coromandel Coast.
The British established lights here during the early phase
of Indian lighthouse construction. At Tuticorin and Palk Bay, two lighthouses
were built in 1845. Findlay described the first as a fixed light shown from an
obelisk, 37 feet (11.2 m) high, situated on Hare Island (8o47.3’N
78o10.9’E), which was given as 2½ miles east of Tuticorin. Whether its
description as an obelisk implies that it was a lightstructure rather than a
lighthouse is not known, but the probability is that, because of the types of
design prevalent at the time, it was, indeed, a lighthouse. Today, the
description is given under F0734. The Palk Bay lighthouse was a round tower, 41
feet (12.4 m) high situated one mile (1.6 km) east of Paumben Pass (9o17.5’N
79o12.6’E). Its fixed light was visible for 12 miles (19.3 km) from a height
of 84 feet (25.5 m). Farther north, a lighthouse was constructed at
Nagappattinam (listed by Findlay as Negapatam, F0914) a year later in 1846. The
similar fixed light was shown from a height of 100 feet (30.4 m), but was
lowered to 88 feet (26.7 m) during a northeast monsoon. A small distance north
again, we come to Karikal (10o55’N 79o44’E) where a fixed light was shown
from 1853 onwards.
Pondicherry is a region of southern India that was once the
chief French settlement in India. The Pondicherry lighthouse (F0926) was the
first on the Coromandel Coast, built in 1836 and it is interesting to speculate
whether this French initiative was responsible for the building of further
lights along the coast. It was visible for 15 miles (24.1 km) from a height of
131 feet (39.8 m). The lighthouse in Madras (F0936) followed some years later in
1844. Findlay records that it showed both a fixed light and a flashing light
every two minutes. This was from a column 125 feet (37.95 m) high on the
Esplanade north of the fort. It is reported to have been visible at a distance
of 24 miles (38.6 km) – a great distance in those times.
The Armegon Shoal (F0951) was a hazard to ships sailing
north from Madras and was marked by a lighthouse in 1853. Its location was given
as 13o52.8’N 80o12’E. The fixed light was visible at 15 miles and was 95
feet (28.9 m) above sea level. North from the Armegon Shoal, a lighthouse
showing a fixed light visible for 12 miles was built in 1851 at Masulipatam, 2
miles northwest of Point Divy and located at 15o58.9’N 81o9.5’E. The height
of the light was 95 feet (28.9 m).
The second lighthouse in India was established at Cape
Godavari (also recorded as Gordeware Point) in 1817, located at 16o 49.1N
82o18.4’E. This was an important point marking entry to the region of the
sacred Godavari River and was one of the earliest European settlements in India.
Flowing through Andhra Pradesh, the river flows southeast through eastern India
where Rajamundry was to become a major city. The river enters the ocean at two
mouths, one at Cape Godavari and the other at Point Narasapatnam. The Godavari
lighthouse was a white stone tower, sixty feet (18.2 m) in height and situated
at a point 1½ miles (2.4 km) west by north on Hope Island in Coringah Bay.
In 1849, a lighthouse called Santapilly (F0980) was built
¾ mile (1.2 km) inshore on Conada Hill where the height of the light was given
as 150 feet (45.7 m). The location was 18o3.5’N 83o36.6’E and the light was
fixed and visible for 14 miles.
In 1838 a lighthouse was constructed two miles southwest of
False Point (F1006) as a fixed bright light visible for 18 miles, the increased
range due to its height of 120 feet (36.6 m) above sea level.
At Pilot Ridge, a lightvessel was first moored in 1851 in
21½ fathoms (39.3 m) during the southwest monsoon. It showed a blue light and a
maroon light every 30 minutes.
To the east of India lies the great Bay of Bengal, and in
the far north lies the city of Calcutta on the banks of the Hughli River. By
1810, the British were long established as rulers of Bengal – a large region
rich in natural resources that were to provide Britain with a source of great
income for over a century. The first lighthouse in South East Asia was built
here in 1810 at Cowcolly or Kedgeree, two miles southwest of the point at the
eastern side of the entrance to the river. There are so many river mouths and
other inlets in this area that it is possible that the British decided to mark
the entrance to the Hughli more as an identification than to mark a particular
hazard. Sadly, the Cowcolly lighthouse is not listed as active today and whether
it still exists is not known.
The location of Calcutta well inland from the northern
Indian Ocean, albeit on a navigable river, was a major driving force in the
early establishment of a lighthouse here, rather than at Bombay, for example,
where the first light was established in 1842 in a lightvessel. Since the Hughli
River was to become such an important navigable channel, it is unsurprising that
a number of other lights were eventually established along it. An iron
lighthouse, 82 feet (25 m) high was built at Middleton Point on Saugor Island
(F1028) in 1852. The light was a bright revolving light that flashed every 20
seconds and was visible for 15 miles, the standard range for lights of this kind
at the time.
Lightships were popular in these times, not just because
they were easily established, but because they were easily moveable in the
larger river channels that were always susceptible to silting-up. There were
many occasions when permanently established lightstructures were rendered
redundant because the course of a river had changed. In 1861, according to
Findlay, there were at least two in the Hughli River. The most important would
seem to be located in the eastern Channel at
21o4’N 88o14’E, established in 1843 with a single fixed white light.
This entry in Findlay’s list is most interesting for we see an indication of
how the particular conditions created by the monsoon climate affected the
operation of such navigational aids. The lightvessel was moved to different
locations during the year. Findlay’s entry reads:
“From October to March in 7½ fms. (13.7 m) at entrance
to E. channel, with maroon or torch every ½ hour, and blue lt. every hour. From
March 15 to Sept. 15 is removed to lat. 21o N., with blue lt. every ½ hour and
maroon every ¼ hour.”
A second lightvessel is reported at 21o26.3’N 88o6.7’E in the Gaspar Channel showing “blue and maroons alternately” – a most unusual description of lights. In 1857, a second lightvessel was moored in the Mutlah River at 21o 6’N 88o48’E. Besides its bright revolving light, visible for 7 miles, Findlay reports that it fired rockets at 8 p.m., midnight and 4 a.m. from March 16 to October 16.
© 2004 Ken Trethewey